Bob

Building a Successful Puppy Class Program

Master the details of a successful, thriving puppy class program, from curriculum to business practices, in this three-part web seminar series. In Part One we explore what makes great curriculum—the kind that keeps people coming back through graduation and into the next class. Part Two focuses specifically on open enrollment puppy curriculum, an approach that allows you to take puppies into class at any time—no more missing out on socialization time, and no more risking potential students taking their business elsewhere. In Part Three we discuss successful business practices, including effective, creative ways to market your puppy classes, and details such as fees, policies, and scheduling.

To see dates and times or sign up.

what is this seminar about?

Part One: What is Curriculum?
Teaching group classes can be daunting – choosing what materials to teach, what order to arrange them in, and how best to present them; handling students and dogs with widely disparate skill and experience levels; keeping the attention of ten dogs and even more people; teaching in such a way that the training impacts students’ daily lives, not just their dogs’ performance in the classroom; engendering student compliance; handling barking dogs and active children.

Most approaches to these problems don’t go to the root—the curriculum itself. Good curriculum serves all students and dogs, leaving no need to choose whether to teach to the high end, the low end, or the middle. Strong curriculum solves classroom management issues. Effective curriculum means an end to hearing “He only behaves in class!”

This presentation will explore what makes great curriculum. We’ll discuss the notions of goal-based curriculum development, backwards planning, and constructivist theory, which provides a way of thinking about teaching humans complex concepts and skills.

To teach well you need a good curriculum. And a good curriculum is more than a list of behaviors to teach and games to play. This presentation will provide a comprehensive notion of what curriculum truly is, and guidelines for how to build it.

Part Two: The Open Enrollment Puppy Program

Never again ask owners to wait two weeks for a new class to start, while precious socialization time slips away. No more postponing class due to under-enrollment, or holding six-week classes with only three puppies.

Learn an approach to curriculum design that allows puppies to join class at any time, without sacrificing consistency or results. In the past, open enrollment classes meant mini-privates in the classroom setting, as trainers struggled to work with each dog-and-person team individually at their own level.  Instead, we employ self-contained lesson planning. This strategy lets everyone participate together in class activities, regardless of ability or experience level.

We’ll share specific lesson plans and a sample one-hour class that incorporates socialization, basic manners training, and problem prevention exercises, all designed to achieve results outside the classroom—where students need it most.

Part Three: Fill Those Classes
Curriculum is central to a successful puppy class program. So is filling the seats. Learn effective, creative, low-cost ways to market your puppy classes. We’ll discuss a community marketing-based approach, looking in detail at a number of projects you can pursue right now to get the phone ringing and the registrations coming in.

We’ll also cover scheduling practices and setting class fees and policies to maximize and protect your revenue.

who’s teaching?

Gina Phairas and Veronica Boutelle combine their business, teaching, and curriculum design backgrounds to help trainers thrive in the business of puppy classes.

what participants say

“I found the puppy seminar top notch. Well done! I really enjoy your presentations and find your quality of work exceptional. I also appreciate the price point on the puppy seminar. It made it affordable to me at a time when money is tight.” –Kristin Lund

“The seminar was amazing. You inspired me to take the leap and start a puppy class! I also got many ideas for marketing and will be taking a closer look at my website. Well worth the cost!” –Sheyla Gutierrez, Puerto Rico

“I have over 25 years’ experience as a Canine Behavior Specialist. For the past 11 years I have been the sole owner and operator of Angeldogs Dog Training. Group classes have always been my nemesis. So much work for so little return that I decided to stop them and only provide private lessons. After taking your Building a Successful Puppy Class Program web seminar I feel confident I’ll be able to do exactly that.

Your seminar gave me the tools and encouragement to start a different way of thinking about training people and working group classes. I am proof positive that you can teach old dogs new tricks. Thank you!” –Victoria Angeldonis, Nokomis, FL

To see dates and times or sign up.

The Business of Curriculum

Frustrated at classes that end with fewer students than you started with? Disappointed that more clients don’t sign up for the next round? All the more perplexed because your class evaluations are glowing, your rates competitive, your reputation strong, and your class schedule full of choices?

Jack russell terrier dog wearing glasses appearing to work on a laptop computerMore often than not the problem is the curriculum. The best classes focus on human decision making, not dog performance, and curriculum should be designed with this in mind. Concern over whether every dog in a class can do a five-minute ‘down stay’ by the end of the course misses the point: What a dog can and cannot do in the classroom is not important—he doesn’t live in the classroom.

The key to reducing recidivism and increasing subsequent class sales is the real-life impact of your classes. No matter how much fun students have had, no matter how much they like their instructor, now matter how successful their dog was in class—if they don’t see useful change in their own lives with their dogs they’re less likely to return.

What every trainer wants—for the sake of her clients and her business—is for the learning and the results to manifest outside the classroom. In other words, clients must learn to make decisions in real-life situations that will help them to a successful outcome with their dog in any particular moment.

Real-Life Success, Not Classroom Performance.
With a curriculum that focuses on the aforementioned five-minute ‘down stay’ in the classroom, that is precisely what the client gets (if, that is, she is very successful): A dog able to do a five-minute ‘down stay’ in the classroom. That isn’t very useful. By contrast, if the client learns what motivates and distracts her dog, and how to accurately read a situation, she will be able to make decisions that set her dog up for success out in the world.

Say a student walks with her dog to a nearby café on a Sunday morning to get a bagel. She wants to eat her bagel on the café patio in the sunshine. A student taught decision making would look around for potential distractions and challenges for her dog in this environment. She would then decide a) whether it is realistic for her to sit and enjoy the sunshine, and b) if she thinks it is, where she should sit, what she needs to watch out for, and what she is asking her dog to do. Is it reasonable to ask her dog for a ‘down stay’ or will she accept a ‘sit’? She would also decide what she is going to reinforce the dog for and at which frequency, what it is reasonable for her to expect from her dog if a distraction enters the environment, and how she will react. Are there circumstances under which she will get up and leave—that is, before a problem arises or she asks too much of her dog?

Rather than insisting on a five-minute ‘down stay’ at the café, this client is making a realistic assessment of what her dog can do in a specific environment so her dog can be reinforced for that. She has learned to assess her dog’s level and work within it so she can expand it, rather than constantly insisting her dog perform an arbitrarily determined behavior based on what was done in class.

To be able to do this, our student had to learn the following: Situational awareness, real-life problem solving, and to work at her dog’s level (criteria setting, essentially).

To teach clients these skills, all curriculum design should be based on two precepts:

  1. Contextual learning. Meaning, don’t teach behavior just to teach behavior. Every classroom exercise should be built around a real-life purpose; no more behaviors taught in a vacuum.
  2. A focus on teaching clients real-world decision making and problem solving. If a client cannot apply what she is learning in class to her life outside the classroom, the class has failed her. From a business perspective, so has the trainer or manager giving the class: When learning has no impact out in the world, people often fail to finish the full course and far fewer come back for another.

Process, Or Fading The Prompt…
Whole books could be written about the process of teaching this type of class. Briefly, here are two keys to success:

A scaffolded approach. A good dog training analogy for scaffolding is fading the prompt. Initially the teacher tells the students what to do. As they pick up the foundational learning, the trainer begins to create opportunities for them to apply their knowledge to new situations, keeping it simple and easy at first. Say the students have just learned how to use a lure to teach their dogs to sit. The instructor might then ask them to consider how they would apply the same technique to train ‘down.’

Or imagine the teacher has explained the principle of ‘nothing for free.’ Instead of giving the clients every example she herself can think of, she gives only a couple and then asks students to find examples each from their own lives.

Gradually, the challenges become larger and more complex, and in the process become increasingly entwined with real-life situations until eventually, the trainer might place the clients in an actual or pretend situation such as a café (or a trip to a pet store or vet office, a mock living room with a ringing doorbell, etc.) and ask them to make the decisions faced by the woman in our opening example. By the end of class, the trainer should not have to tell a client whose dog is easily distracted by other dogs where to sit in this café scenario to create the distance that will allow her dog to be successful. At that point the trainer has faded the prompt and the student is able to do it herself. Failing to fade the prompt greatly decreases the likelihood the client will make good decisions out in the world.

Self-Contained Lessons. One of the biggest challenges facing any teacher, whether they instruct kindergarteners, high schoolers, grad students, or people with their dogs, is handling the widely varied skill and knowledge levels of their students. Do you teach to the middle? Reward the more advanced students with extra time so they don’t get bored? Give the struggling students more of your attention? These questions often spark lively debate, but it’s a false dilemma, because a well-designed curriculum does away with the need to choose.

If we don’t require that all dogs attain the five-minute ‘down stay,’ bell curve grading can be put to rest. Lessons and activities can be designed to allow everyone—humans and dogs—to succeed and improve, regardless of where they currently are.

For example, an alternative stay lesson might consist of a particular distraction set up in an area of the classroom. (Perhaps a guest dog working with an assistant, the instructor bouncing a tennis ball, a student’s teenager rolling a skateboard.)  Students are told to practice stays in the midst of the distraction. The challenge? The students have to decide where in the room to practice. They have to read their dog, judge how he’s likely to react to the distraction, think about how well his stay is coming along, and then decide: Should I get up close and go for short duration? Give myself ten feet? Work in the farthest corner (or even the hallway)?

If their decision is wrong in either direction, they’ll soon know. Early on in the course the instructor might prompt an adjustment: “Fido seems particularly entranced by the skateboard. What might make this easier for him?” This instruction will help the student learn to take action as needed. Again, if we make the mistake of telling the client what to do (“You might want to move farther away from the distraction”) instead of cultivating their own problem solving, the learning is less likely to transfer outside of the classroom.

This lesson allows people and dogs at all levels to participate successfully because success is defined individually. And when I work at my dog’s level he’s able to get it right, which means I can reinforce him, which means he’s going to get it right more often.

The Bottom Line
We often talk about training really being about teaching humans, not dogs. But few training classes realize this conviction. Too often class curriculum is treated as merely a list of behaviors to teach; which keeps the focus on dog performance, not human learning. It’s also not curriculum—it’s a list of behaviors. Curriculum focused on the human learners, by contrast, is built around problem solving and decision making applied to real-life contexts.

We tend to judge the success of our classes based on 1) whether people enjoyed themselves and 2) whether the dogs were able to perform the prescribed behaviors. But a much better yardstick would be how our classes make people’s lives with their dogs better or easier in some way—because that’s what will get them to come back. And that’s good for them, their dogs, and for business.

A Few Additional Tips for Selling Subsequent Classes:

  1. Don’t wait until graduation to tell students about the next class they should take. Instead, talk about upcoming classes and next steps in the penultimate class. This gives students time to think ahead and not feel rushed into a decision. They’re more likely to remember to bring their checkbook or credit card and to be ready to pull the trigger. For an added personal touch, give each student a branded postcard with your personal recommendations for which class or classes would be a great next step for their dog.
  2. Give a discount for registering for a next class at graduation. The discount doesn’t have to be large to work– something as small as 10% or $10 will do the trick.
  3. Focus on the benefits of taking the classes. Talking about what will be covered is fine, but telling people how it will help them—that’s the key. Will the class make life at home calmer? Help them enjoy taking their dog out into the world? Make them feel more in control? Give them an enjoyable way to spend an evening out at half the price of dinner and a movie?

 

Want some help with your curriculum? Check out these resources:

Learn how to make yours The Best Classes in Town with this dogbiz University course.

Jump start your classes with a dogbiz curriculum package:

Want to read more?

How To Put More Hours In Your Day

Do you struggle to find time for the day-to-day tasks of running your business, not to mention all those items relegated to “someday, when I have time?” (Things like marketing, for example?) Do you have fewer than two regular days off each week? Wish there was more balance between your work and non-work lives, want some regular downtime for yourself? In other words, would you like to learn how to fit it all in without feeling like the proverbial chicken? This is the web seminar for you.

To see dates and times or sign up.

who is this seminar for?

Any dog pro who wishes they could do more with less time.

in this seminar you will:

•    learn business practices and policies that save time while increasing your revenue
•    learn simple strategies to organize and manage your time in a systematic, flexible, sustainable way
•    start a master calendar designed to get your work life under control—and give you time for you

who’s teaching?

Veronica Boutelle and Gina Phairas, dogTEC’s business consultants, guide the process, just as they have for hundreds of clients across the country.

To see dates and times or sign up.

Got Referrals?

Referral sources such as veterinary clinics, pet supply stores, shelters, and fellow dog pros (trainers, walkers, sitters, daycares, and boarding facilities) are key to a successful dog business. But in an ever-growing industry it’s increasingly difficult to forge and keep strong referral relationships. We’ll teach you ways to forge lucrative relationships that help to grow your client base.

To see dates and times or sign up.

who is this seminar for?

Any dog pro who would benefit from client referrals.

in this seminar you will:

•    get tips for making first contacts (without the usual discomfort of cold calls or walk-ins)
•    learn strategies for setting up exclusive relationships
•    build your confidence and comfort with approaching potential referral sources
•    look at a number of innovative marketing strategies aimed at referral sources
•    learn how to keep the relationships you have—and make them work better

who’s teaching?

Veronica Boutelle and Gina Phairas share ideas and approaches from their years of business consulting for dog pros.

To see dates and times or sign up.

A Dog Walker’s Checklist

Professional dog walking has grown rapidly over the last ten years, and the collapse of the economy has sent a new flood of dog lovers into the field. Because walking is a young business, there is currently no regulating body to dictate the standards of care or qualifications for the work.

But walking dogs, particularly in groups, takes more than the passion we all share for them. There are specialized knowledge and skill sets, as well as ethical business practices, necessary to ensure the safety of the dogs in your charge, as well as yourself and the other dogs and humans who share the beaches, trails, parks, and sidewalks.

Here are ten questions to ask of yourself, whether new to walking or already enjoying your career with the dogs.

1. Are you trained in canine learning theory, body language, and pack management?
You want to know how to: a) use scientifically sound, humane training methods; b) read body language and take appropriate steps to prevent fights (and properly break them upwhen need be); c) judge which dogs to place together for maximum compatibility; and 4) handle issues like quarrels over toys, space, or play styles. In short, you want a professional knowledge and the skill set to keep the group together and under control while everyone has a great time. Of course, a love of dogs is imperative — but not enough on its own.

2. How many dogs do you walk at once?
Some cities, counties, and park districts now regulate the number of dogs a walker can take out together. But most do not. This means that some walkers are escorting six or eight dogs, while others are walking as many as 15 and even 20 together in public spaces. Whether on or off leash, each dog added to a group increases the potential for conflict, injury, lost dogs, and distraction – not to mention making individual attention neigh impossible.

3. Do you walk alone?
A walker’s job is to keep the dogs in your care safe and show them a good time. This means keeping vigilant focus. Teaming up with a friend can be fun, but it inevitably reduces attention. If that friend is also a dog walker, going out together combines two sets of dogs, making the pack too large for maximum safety. For best results, hit the trail with dogs, not other people. For similar reasons, cell phones and other potentially distracting devices should be turned off during dog walks.

4. Do you do the walking?
Most dog walking companies are very small — the sole proprietor is the sole walker. Some have multiple employees, however. If that’s you, insist your walkers follow the same ethical practices you do, and either hire well-trained walkers, or provide thorough training before sending employees out on their own.

5. What size dogs do you walk together?
Walk small dogs with other smalls, and the same for big ones. It’s too easy for small dogs to be injured during the course of play with and among their larger peers. And the risk of predatory drift, in which one dog attacks and even kills another, is much higher than is generally realized. This tragedy can — and most commonly does — happen between dogs who know each other and generally get along well, even for years. It’s safest to stick to the 50% rule. For example, if you walk a dog who weighs 30 pounds, his playmates should weigh no more than 60 pounds.

6. How much time do you guarantee on the walk?
If your service includes transporting dogs, make sure that the time you quote is time out of the vehicle, roaming and having fun. The car ride shouldn’t be included. And always give Fido her full due unless weather makes renders conditions unsafe.

7. What kind of training methods and equipment do you use?
The American Veterinary Medical Association and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals recommend only positive-reinforcement based training. Learn how to keep a group of dogs under control and safe without the use of choke, prong, and shock collars; citronella or water spray; hitting, shoving, or yelling. The dogs in your care are supposed to have a good time out there. We don’t allow teachers or camp counselors to spank children. A professional walker shouldn’t need to resort to such measures, either.

8. Are you licensed, insured, and bonded?
Any walker using the word “professional” should carry dog-walking insurance and have a business license. And if you have employees bond them as added protection for you and your company.

9. Do you have a professional service contract and references?
Ask all clients to sign a contract to help avoid later conflicts and to protect your liability should something happen to the dogs in your care, or should they inflict damage on a third party while in your care.

10. Are you certified to provide canine first aid, and what are your emergency protocols?
What will you do if a dog is injured in your care? If you walk groups, what will you do with the rest of the dogs if one member of the group is hurt and requires your full attention? What about if your vehicle breaks down, if a dog is lost, or if a natural disaster occurs? Always carry emergency information and know the fastest route to the emergency veterinary clinic. In short, be prepared.

We are currently seeing an explosion of dog walkers and dog-walking companies. It is, after all, a wonderful way to make a living. If it’s the path you choose, set yourself up to enjoy the most worry-free experience, knowing that you are taking the best care possible of the four-leggeds in your care.

 

Become a dog walker or advance your existing experience and business at the dogbiz Dog Walking Academy.